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Step by Step Guide to Highly Defined Eyes

Due to popular demand, that is some of my girlfriends’ constant nagging over a number of years , about me teaching them how to apply eye makeup in general, and not being so selfish about keeping my technical abilities to myself; here is my own tried-and-tested 101 eye make up tutorial.

It may not be anything like the theory taught in beauty schools nor what magazine editors preach, but I’m going to share my own tricks, all learnt from working in cosmetics in the past, ending up with melted Panda eyes on numerous occasions , and just basically struggling with a changing iris colour that picks up any surrounding colours to the point of actually sometimes turning brown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In this chapter of SUF’s 101 make up master class, we are going to create highly defined eyes, a semi-natural look that will take you from morning to night, and that will match different shades and intensities of lipcolour. It is much easier to achieve than the total bare look or the smokey evening look.

Step 1: Define the upper lid with a black kohl pencil, by tracing the line as close as possible to your lash line.

Before you start doing anything, make sure that your skin is thoroughly clean, stay away from eye make up remover on a cotton pad or any milky removers, instead wash away the impurities with a gentle foaming cleanser and water.

Starting from the inner corner of the eye,  start with the thinnest line possible and make it discreetly thicker as you go towards the outer corner. For an almond shape eye, do take care not to drop your line and lift it up a little, otherwise you’ll end up with droopy eyes.

The secret to a good line is (you’ve guessed it) practice and a sturdy hand, but more importantly a very good quality kohl such as Chanel’s and the best possible eye pencil sharpener that won’t break the tip.

Use black kohl whatever your eye colour is or how fair your lashes are, as it tends to give more intensity to your gaze. From experience, I have found Brown to be the worst possible shade as it will put out the brightness in your whites and turn off the sparkle in your iris colour.

For a more intense evening look opt for a liquid black liner.

Step 1B: if you are not short on time and want to define the upper lash line even further, use Laura Mercier’s cake liner.

Using a flat brush and water, dilute the “cake” until you reach an inky texture. Then with the tip of the brush, look up and with small strokes just push the inky colour against the base of your lashes repeatedly. This will ensure that any gaps that haven’t been filled with your kohl or eye liner are smoothed out.

Take care not to touch the water line: basically the area most sensitive that will make your eyes watery.  There is only one colour to use and that is a dark midnight blue, the reflects of which will cast a nice brightness to your eye colour as well as your whites.

Step 2: Bring out your iris colour with a subtle shade of dark eyeshadow right on top of the black kohl pencil.

Opt for a charcoal , dark grey or darkest blue eye shadow:  using the edge of your applicator tip, trace a line right on top of the one you drew with the Kohl pencil. This will intensify the lash line and make the eye shadow colour hold much longer (think of powder bonding to a greasy base of kohl).

Continue to define your eyes by tracing a line of eye shadow along your lower lashes; eye shadow is smoother and easier to apply close to the lashes, it will also give you a smoother gaze than  the one achieved with a kohl pencil.
Step 3: Apply a platinum or lightest beige eye-shadow all along the mobile upper lid.

Don’t be scared of going slightly over the edge of the upper lid line that you so painstakingly drew with kohl and dark eye shadow: it will only smooth out any kinks or unsteady traces of kohl, making the overall tracing more natural.

Step 4: Go extra-large and wild on mascara, to have the thickest and longest lashes possible.

I only swear by volumising mascaras, forget about the lengthening variety that will make you look like you’re losing your eyelashes and won’t add anything to your fringes. My absolute favourites are False Lash effect mascaras such as Lash Architect 3D by L’Oreal Paris in blackest black or the latest Lash Architect 4D in Black.

Stay away from brown,  a colour that will only make you look ill. I also recommend Midnight blue and darkest purple for a nice colour cast. The important thing is to stick to colours that cast a cooler light to your iris and whites.

For best application tips although many make-up artists would argue differently:
          Use the entire length of your brush by starting to comb (3 to 4 times ) your lashes from underneath, starting from the outer edge and moving lightly towards the inside corner, take care not to overload the inside corner.
          Go over your lashes again this time from the top of your lashes only and apply a couple of coats, trying to separate each lash using the entire width of your mascara comb.
          Wait 1 minute to dry before batting your eyelids to avoid any stamping.

Step 5:  Define the upper area between the mobile lid and the brow bone, with a medium shade of taupe, grey, pink, coral or even gold.

Smudge the colour with the lighter shade on your mobile lid for a seamless gradual look. Keep your medium shade light enough not to overpower your gaze, this is just meant to give definition to your gaze.

And voila! Please feel free to post any questions or comments if anything is unclear. Tantoun this post was for you ;)!

All photos by Style Under Fire
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